Palawan, a long slender island stretching 450 kilometers through the western Philippines, is often called the country's last ecological frontier, and for good reason. While much of the Philippines has been developed and deforested, Palawan retains vast tracts of primary rainforest, mangrove coastline, and some of the most biodiverse marine ecosystems in the Coral Triangle. The island's dramatic landscape is defined by towering limestone karst formations that jut from emerald waters, creating the kind of scenery that seems almost too perfect to be real. El Nido, on the island's northern tip, is the epicenter of this geological drama: a collection of 45 islands and islets whose sheer limestone cliffs, hidden lagoons, and white sand beaches have made it one of Southeast Asia's most photographed destinations.
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The Puerto Princesa Subterranean River, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of Palawan's crown jewels. This underground river winds 8.2 kilometers through a limestone cave system beneath a mountain ridge, making it one of the longest navigable underground rivers in the world. Visitors take guided boat tours through the first 1.5 kilometers of the cave, drifting past cathedral-like chambers hung with stalactites and inhabited by swiftlets and bats. The surrounding Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park protects 22,000 hectares of old-growth lowland rainforest and karst landscape that supports an astonishing array of wildlife, including endemic species found nowhere else.
Coron, in the Calamian Islands at Palawan's northern extreme, offers a different kind of underwater adventure. During World War II, American aircraft sank a fleet of Japanese supply ships in Coron Bay, and these wrecks now sit at accessible depths of 10 to 40 meters, encrusted with coral and teeming with marine life. Wreck diving here is world-class, but Coron's appeal extends beyond the wrecks: the twin lagoons of Kayangan Lake and Barracuda Lake, enclosed by sheer limestone walls, feature thermocline layers where freshwater meets saltwater at startlingly different temperatures. Island-hopping tours from Coron town visit pristine beaches, coral gardens, and hot springs on surrounding islands.
Palawan's cuisine reflects its geographic position between the Philippines and Borneo. Seafood dominates, with fresh catches of grouper, squid, prawns, and blue crabs prepared simply -- grilled over charcoal with soy-calamansi dipping sauce or simmered in sinigang, a sour tamarind-based soup. Crocodile sisig, a sizzling chopped meat dish, is a uniquely Palawan specialty offered at the Palawan Wildlife Rescue and Conservation Center near Puerto Princesa. Tamilok, raw mangrove woodworm eaten with vinegar and chili, is the island's most adventurous food challenge and supposedly tastes like oysters. Cashew nuts from Palawan's groves are roasted and sold as souvenirs at roadside stalls throughout the province.
The best time to visit Palawan is during the dry season from November through May, with the driest and most pleasant conditions from January through April. The southwest monsoon brings rain from June through October, particularly heavy on the western coast, though El Nido and Coron can still be visited during this period with some flexibility. Puerto Princesa has a domestic airport with frequent flights from Manila and Cebu, while El Nido and Coron each have smaller airports served by propeller planes. Overland travel between Puerto Princesa and El Nido takes five to six hours by van on an improved road that winds through rural Palawan. The Philippine peso is the currency, and costs are remarkably low by international standards. Eco-tourism fees help fund conservation efforts, and visitors should choose operators committed to responsible practices, as Palawan's pristine environment is its greatest asset and most fragile treasure.